Kapuche Lake Trek – 6 Days

You leave your hotel in Kathmandu at around 7 am. Your driver and guide pick you up from the hotel, put your bags in the car, and you head out.

First, the road takes you up to Naubise at the edge of the valley. Then it goes down the hill, so this part is a bit slow. If the sky is clear, turn around for one last look at Kathmandu. Soon you meet the Trishuli River, your driving views for a long time. You see the river below, small villages, green rice fields, and hanging bridges over the water. In autumn and summer, you might see people rafting down the river.

After a couple of hours, you stop for breakfast or tea at a roadside place near Malekhu or Kurintar. Malekhu is known for fried river fish, so try some if you like fish. Near Kurintar, you can also ride the Manakamana cable car up to a famous hilltop temple. It takes about two hours, so ask your guide before the trip if you want to add it.

Next, you reach Mugling, where two rivers meet. It is a busy town full of trucks and buses, and many people stop here for lunch. After Mugling, the road turns west and follows the Marsyangdi and Seti rivers. You pass the towns of Damauli and Dumre.

You reach Pokhara in the afternoon. As you drive into town, look north. On a clear day, you see the snowy top of Machhapuchhre (Fishtail Mountain) right above the city. Your guide takes you to your hotel near Lakeside and helps you check in.

The rest of the day is yours. Walk along Phewa Lake, sit in a lakeside cafe, or rent a small boat. In the evening, Lakeside is full of restaurants, shops, and live music. It is a good place to enjoy after a long day on the road. Overnight stay in Pokhara.

You start the day with breakfast at your hotel in Pokhara. Around 8 am, your guide meets you in the lobby, and you get into a jeep. A jeep is the best way to get to Sikles from Pokhara, because the second half of the road is rough and bumpy.

The first part of the drive, the road is paved and easy. You leave the busy streets of Pokhara and drive towards small towns, shops, and green fields. On a clear morning, Machhapuchhre (Fishtail Mountain) will be seen on your left, and you can see it for much of the way.

Soon the paved road ends, and the dirt road begins. From here, the jeep moves slowly. The road climbs up the hillsides of the Madi River valley in long zigzags. You pass rice terraces, millet fields, and small farm villages where kids wave as you go by. Some parts are steep and narrow, so hold on tight and enjoy the bumpy ride. If you get car sick, take a tablet before you leave.

On the way, you can stop at Harihar Cave if you ask your guide. It is a quiet cave temple and a nice place to take a rest. You also stop for tea at a small roadside shop. As the jeep climbs higher, the air gets cooler, and the views open up. Look north, and you see the snow peaks of Annapurna II, Annapurna IV, and Lamjung Himal.

You reach Sikles around midday. Sikles is one of the biggest Gurung villages in the Annapurna region. The houses are made of stone with slate roofs, and they sit close together on the hillside. Many men from this village have served in the British and Indian Gurkha armies, and you may meet some retired soldiers who are happy to share their stories.

After you check in at your teahouse or homestay, have lunch and take a short rest. In the afternoon, walk around the village with your guide. Visit the old monastery, see the village school, and watch people working in their fields or weaving baskets. If you are lucky, you may see women dressed in traditional Gurung clothes and jewelry.

In the evening, sit down for a home-cooked dal bhat dinner with your host family. Life in Sikles is slow and simple, and the night is very quiet. If the sky is clear, step outside before bed. You can see more stars here than you will ever see in a city. The day’s overnight stay and dinner are at Sikles village.

Today is your first full day of the trek. You wake up to the sound of roosters and the smell of wood smoke in Sikles. After a warm breakfast, fill up your water bottle and pack a light day bag. Your guide checks that you have a rain jacket, warm layers, and some snacks before you set off.

You leave the village on old stone steps that wind up through the fields. Local people use this path every day, so you may pass farmers carrying grass or firewood in big baskets on their backs. Say “Namaste” as you go by. Most people will smile and greet you back. Turn around now and then for a last look at the slate roofs of Sikles below you.

Soon the fields end, and you walk into a thick forest of oak and rhododendron. In spring, from March to April, the rhododendron trees are full of red and pink flowers. The trail is shady and cool here. Here, you’ll hear birds and see monkeys in the trees. You cross small streams on stepping stones and wooden bridges, and you pass a few waterfalls along the way.

Around the middle of the day, you stop in a quiet spot for a packed lunch or a cup of tea. Take your time and rest. There are no shops or villages on this part of the trail, so your guide carries what you need.

In the afternoon, the trek follows the river that flows down from Kapuche Lake. Some trails are narrow, steep, and rocky, so walk slowly and watch your step. Use trekking poles if you have them.

You reach Hugu Goth in the late afternoon. “Goth” is the Nepali word for a herders’ shelter. Shepherds bring their sheep and buffalo up to these high meadows in the warmer months. On a clear evening, you can see Annapurna II, Lamjung Himal, and Machhapuchhre very close from the village.

The places to stay here are simple. Rooms are basic, and there is no hot shower or Wi-Fi. Some groups stay in tents. It gets cold after the sun goes down, so put on your down jacket and wear a warm hat. Go to bed early tonight. Tomorrow you hike up to Kapuche Lake, the lowest glacier lake in the world.

Today is the big day. You get up early, around 5:30 am, and have a quick breakfast and a hot cup of tea. Mornings are the best time to see the lake, because the sky is clear and the clouds roll in later in the day. You leave your big bag at Hugu Goth and carry only a small day pack with water, snacks, a warm layer, and your rain jacket.

The initial phase of the trek is easy as you walk out of the meadow. Then it gets rocky and narrow. You climb over big stones and walk along the edge of the river that comes down from the lake. In some places there is no clear path, so stay close to your guide and step where they step. Take it slow. It is only about 2 to 3 hours to the lake, so there is no need to rush.

As you climb, the forest gets thinner, and the mountains get closer. The air is cool and fresh. Then you come over a rise of rocks and see Kapuche Lake in front of you. The water is a grey-green color, and the glacier comes right down to the edge of the lake. Big pieces of ice float on the water, and sometimes a chunk breaks off the glacier and falls in with a splash. Above it all, faces of Annapurna II and Lamjung Himal are stunning.

Find a safe, flat rock and sit down. Take your photos, eat your snacks, and just enjoy the area’s calmness. Do not walk too close to the water or the glacier, as the ice can break without warning. Spend about an hour here before you start back.

The walk down follows the same trail. Going down over loose rocks is hard on the knees, so use your trekking poles and watch every step. It takes about 2 to 3 hours to get back to Hugu Goth.

You reach Hugu Goth in the early afternoon. Rest, have a late lunch, and dry your socks in the sun. In the evening, sit by the fire with your guide and the other trekkers and talk about the day. Have a hot dinner and get a good night’s sleep, because tomorrow you walk back down to Sikles.

This is a long day, so you start early. Wake up around 6 am and take one last look at the mountains from Hugu Goth. The morning light on Annapurna II and Lamjung Himal is stunning, so don’t miss it. After breakfast, pack your bag and say goodbye to the village.

You walk back down the same trail you came up two days ago. It feels different going the other way, and you notice things you missed before. The first part is rocky and narrow along the river, so walk slowly and use your trekking poles. Going down is easier on your lungs but harder on your knees, so take small steps.

Soon you are back in the cool, shady oak and rhododendron forest. You cross the same little streams and wooden bridges and pass the waterfalls again. Take short breaks when you need. Your guide will stop at a good spot for a snack and some water.

After about 4 to 5 hours, the forest opens up, and you see the stone houses and slate roofs of Sikles below you. You have lunch here, maybe at the same home where you stayed on the first night.

After lunch, you get into the jeep and head back to Pokhara. The first part of the road is dirt and very bumpy, just like on the way up. Take a car sickness tablet if you need one. Look out the window for one last view of the mountain peaks as the jeep takes you down the rice terraces and small villages.

Once you reach the paved road, the ride gets smooth and easy. You get to Pokhara in the late afternoon or early evening, and your guide drops you at your hotel near Lakeside. After three nights in the hills, you’ll get to the city area. In the evening, walk down to Phewa Lake and find a restaurant for dinner. Pizza, steak, cold drinks, and live music are all close by. It is a good way to celebrate the end of your Kapuche Lake trek.

Today you say goodbye to Pokhara. Wake up early and have breakfast at your hotel. Your guide meets you in the lobby at around 6:30 am and drives you to the tourist bus park near Lakeside. It is only a few minutes away.

The tourist buses leave at about 7 am. Your guide helps you find your bus and puts your bag in the luggage space under the bus. Keep a small bag with you for your water, snacks, phone, and a warm layer. Your seat number is on your ticket, so just find it and get comfortable. The seats are padded, and most buses have air conditioning.

If the sky is clear as you leave, you see Machhapuchhre and the Annapurna peaks above Pokhara, and it is a nice last view of the mountains. Then the bus heads east on the Prithvi Highway, the same road you came on at the start of your trip.

The bus follows the Seti River, passes the towns of Damauli and Dumre, and then follows the Marsyangdi River down to Mugling. After Mugling, the road takes you beside the Trishuli River for a long way.

The bus stops one to two times on the way. There is a breakfast or tea stop in the morning and a lunch stop around midday at a roadside restaurant. Lunch is not included in the package price, so keep some Nepali rupees. You reach Kathmandu in the afternoon, between 2 and 3 pm, depending on traffic. The bus stops close to Thamel. Our driver meets you there and takes you to your hotel.

The rest of the day is free. Rest at the hotel, or explore Thamel for some last shopping. It is a good place to buy pashmina shawls, singing bowls, Nepali tea, and other gifts to take home.

If you would rather not spend the day on the bus, you can take a 25-minute flight from Pokhara to Kathmandu instead, for an extra cost.