Island Peak Climbing

Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse, is a popular trekking peak in the Everest Region of Nepal. It is located inside the Sagarmatha National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is approximately 10 km southwest of Mount Everest, the world’s tallest mountain. The nearby landmarks are Imja Sho Lake, Lhotse Shar Glacier, Ama Dablam, and Mount Lhotse. You can get to Island Peak by diverting towards Chhukung from Dingboche. If you are descending from Everest Base Camp, you can get to the peak by diverting from Lobuche via Kongma La Pass (5,535 meters).

The peak was named Island Peak by the members of the 1953 British expedition. However, it was later renamed to Imja Tse. But the name Island Peak remains popular. The southwest summit of this peak was climbed by the same team that named it in 1953. In that team was Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, the first person to ascend Everest alongside Edmund Hillary. Later, Hans-Rudolf Von Gunten, along with Sherpa guides, climbed the main summit in 1956.

If you are a complete beginner with no climbing experience or a little amount of trekking in the high-altitude region, then Island Peak is not suitable for you. However, it doesn’t mean that it’s not doable. It is, and it requires three things: a) a physically fit body, b) climbing practices either with the guide or in a climbing school, and c) a lot of determination. Here is a breakdown of Island Peak climbing for each level of experience, so you can determine if it’s suitable for you.\

Island Peak for Beginners

While we don’t recommend Island Climbing Peak for beginners, those with trekking experience can still attempt climbing by taking classes. Additionally, they must be physically fit and able to handle the unpredictability of the trek. If you are a beginner with no trekking or climbing experience, start by attempting high-altitude treks like the Annapurna Circuit Trek or the Everest Base Camp Trek, or lower-altitude peak climbing like Gokyo Ri or Naya Kanga Peak. Also, focus on exercises that strengthen your lungs, legs, and core. For beginners, the experience will be intense and challenging but equally rewarding.

Island Peak Climbing for Intermediate Trekkers/Climbers

Intermediate trekkers are aware of the risks associated with high altitudes. So, conquering the peak will be easier for them compared to beginners. With an assumption that they have good physical fitness, they will only need to focus on gaining the technical knowledge. For intermediate climbers, there will be no such problems as they will have experience climbing similar peaks. Intermediate climbers often use Island Peak as a practice peak for higher climbs. If you fall in this category, you can expect it to be an introductory level for mountaineering with basic technicalities. However, it will still be challenging if you are not prepared.

Island Peak Climbing for Expert Mountaineers

For any experienced mountaineers, Island Peak is a piece of cake. Since they would have already climbed multiple similar peaks or even higher peaks, they can easily climb this one too. Many experienced mountaineers often use Island Peak as an acclimatization climb before embarking on bigger expeditions, such as Ama Dablam or Everest. If you fall under this category, you can expect manageable crevasse navigation and short but technical sections. For you, it will be more about refining your mountain climbing skills than testing them. That said, it will still satisfy your hunger for climbing.

We discussed physical fitness, acclimatization, and technical skills in the sections above in this guide. But, those are not enough for the Island Peak Trek preparation. Here is what you need to do:

Physical Fitness

• Build stamina with cardio workouts, such as running, cycling, or swimming.
• Strengthen your core, legs, and endurance through weight training.
• Go on a hike with a backpack.

Altitude Acclimatization

• Acclimatize by spending extra days at higher altitudes.
• Practice gradual ascents and stay hydrated to prevent altitude sickness.
• Sleep for at least 8 hours, allowing your body to recover.

Technical Skills

• Familiarize yourself with basic mountaineering techniques, such as rope handling, ice axe use, and crampon walking.
• Consider taking an introductory mountaineering course if you are a beginner.

Equipment and Gear

• Pack essentials like mountaineering boots, crampons, harnesses, helmets, and an ice axe.
• Ensure layers for extreme cold and wind protection, including a down jacket, thermal wear, gloves, and insulated pants.

Note: For a detailed list, please refer to the article below.

Mental Preparation

• Prepare for long trekking hours and challenging climbs.
• Stay focused, motivated, and patient during adverse conditions.
• Practice breathing exercises and meditation.
• You can also spend a day practising the climbing before actually doing it.

Even though Island Peak is considered a trekking peak, you have to obtain the climbing permit as its elevation exceeds the altitude of 6,000 meters. Besides a climbing permit, you also need to obtain a Garbage Disposal Permit, which is refundable. As you will be trekking inside the Everest Region, you will need two other permits: Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit and Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit. If you start your trek from Jiri, you will need an additional permit, known as the Gaurishankar Conservation Area Permit. The table below showcases all the permits, including their prices and locations where they can be obtained.

Many decide to climb the Island Peak for different reasons. For some, it’s adventure, for some, it’s practice, and for some, it’s a way to get into mountaineering. The Island Peak Climbing Trek combines both trekking and climbing, providing the ultimate thrill. That said, here are four reasons why you should choose Island Peak Climbing.

Perfect for Beginners

Island Peak is ideal for beginners transitioning from high-altitude trekking to Himalayan peak climbing. At the same time, it requires some basic technical skills, such as using crampons and ropes, but it is not as challenging as Mera Peak or any other high-altitude peak. You can always take climbing courses to learn these techniques. With proper acclimatization and the guidance of experienced guides, even someone with no prior experience in climbing trekking peaks can reach the summit.

High Success Rate

Since Island Peak is beginner-friendly and located near Everest, many people opt for it as a practice peak to start their mountaineering journey. Even with a larger number trying to reach the summit, the success rate is high. The route is well established, and it’s easier to ascend, with few exceptions near the summit. If you have adequately acclimatized, the risk of altitude sickness will be low, so you won’t have to descend.

Outstanding Mountain Views

Discussing the climbing peak without mentioning the mountain views visible from the summit is unheard of. The major advantage of climbing the peak is the panoramic view it provides. Island Peak offers unforgettable mountain sights. From the summit, you will be rewarded with the vistas of some of the Himalayan mountains like Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Ama Dablam, and many more.

Training for a Bigger Expedition

Island Peak is approximately 10 km from Everest, standing at an elevation of 6,189 meters. Due to its proximity and manageable altitude, it often serves as a practice peak for mountaineers preparing for larger expeditions. So, if you are someone who aims to climb peaks over 7,000 meters and eventually 8,000 meters, Island Peak can be the place where you start. Successfully summiting the Island Peak builds confidence and provides you with the experience.

A guide is mandatory when it comes to Island Peak Climbing. They will not only provide you with cultural insight but also ensure your safety. They will set up the ropes for climbing and help you cross the challenging sections. Not just that, if needed, they will teach you the technical skills required to climb. At Himalaya Guide Nepal, we provide you with an expert guide who has climbing experience. Their salary will be included in the package.

A porter carries your backpack, significantly decreasing the load. It allows you to walk freely. Since you will be climbing the peak, hiring a porter will be helpful. If you are carrying all your luggage by yourself, your body may be under stress, and it may take longer to recover. This will eventually affect your climbing. The porter’s fee is not included in the package. However, if you need porters, we are more than happy to manage it for you. Regarding the setup of the camp, Himalaya Guide Nepal will hire a local team for the Everest Region, which is included in the package.

Here is the general packing list for Island Peak Climbing. However, the quantity and the items are subject to your preferences and the season. Besides, Himalaya Guide Nepal will provide the climbing gear.

There are multiple other peaks in the Everest Region. Why exactly choose Island Peak over them? Here is a comparison table:

As you can see, Island Peak is a moderate climb, making it suitable for beginners. On the other hand, Lobuche and Mera Peak are either physically demanding or more technical than Island Peak. Besides, you can climb to Island Peak in fewer days than Lobuche and Mera. Regarding the cost, it is more affordable than Lobuche, but the price is comparable to that of Mera Peak. Hence, Island Peak (Imja Tse) can be the ideal start for your mountaineering journey.

• Country: Nepal
• Region: Khumbu/Everest Region
• Duration: 18 days
• Starting Point: Lukla
• Ending Point: Lukla
• Difficulty Level: Challenging
• Distance: Approximately 120–150 km
• Beginner-Friendly: No
• Acclimatization: Included
• Highest Point: Island Peak Summit (6,165 meters)
• Best Seasons: Spring (March–May) and Autumn (September–November)
• Accommodations: Hotels in Kathmandu, tea houses during the trek, tented camp at Island Peak Base Camp
• Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner during the trek and climb
• Permits: Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) Permit, Sagarmatha National Park Permit, and Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entry Permit

When discussing Island Peak Climbing, we can divide it into two phases: one during the peak season and the other during the off-season. Let us closely look at both of them:

Peak Season for Island Peak Climbing

Peak season for Island Peak Climbing is during the autumn (September to November) and spring (March to May) seasons. These are the best times for mountaineering, including Island Peak Climbing. Here is why:

• Stable weather and clear skies, offering unobstructed views of the surrounding mountains. Such conditions are ideal for climbing.
• Although the temperature is low in the higher regions, it is manageable compared to the winter temperatures. Additionally, the temperature in the lower areas is mild, making it suitable for trekking.
• During these seasons, there is a lower risk of snowfall and avalanches compared to winter.
• The trails are filled with beautiful scenery, featuring blooming rhododendrons in the spring and a golden hue in the autumn.
• The longer daylight hours in these seasons allow climbers to spend a significant amount of time climbing without worrying about darkness.

Off-Seasons for Island Peak Climbing

Monsoon (June to August) and winter (December to February) are the off-season for Island Peak Climbing. We typically do not recommend these seasons due to the increased risk. Here is why these seasons are extremely challenging:

• The trails become slippery and muddy due to heavy rainfall and snowfall during these seasons. Plus, there is a high chance of avalanches and landslides.
• In the winter months, temperatures drop below freezing point, especially at higher altitudes. This makes the climb very challenging and uncomfortable.
• Snow and ice build-up on the trail and near the summit. This makes the route more technical and risky. You might require advanced skills and specialized gear.
• Many teahouses and lodges along the route may be closed during the off-season. So, accommodation and food options are limited for climbers.

Here is the temperature table for the Island Peak Climbing in different seasons. The temperatures provided below are approximate averages, which will help you in estimating the packing and planning the trek:

At Himalaya Guide Nepal, the cost of Island Peak Climbing is USD 2,150 per person for a group of two. The more the group, the greater the discount, as trekking in a group is budget-friendly. For example, if there is a group of ten people, the price for a person would be USD 1,878. 

Note: Additionally, seasonal and festive discounts are available at Himalaya Guide Nepal.

Island Peak Climbing Cost Breakdown

The table below provides a breakdown of the significant expenses included in the Island Peak Climbing Package:

Note: Our packages cover these prices. The additional prices include the cost of your flight to and from Nepal, travel insurance, tips for guides and porters, and other expenses. (Look below for what is included and not included in the package.) It also doesn’t include the price for the Garbage Disposal Permit, which is refundable.