Tikhedhunga

Tikhedhunga sits at 1,540 m beside the Bhurungdi Khola, on the trail from Nayapul to Ghorepani. It is the last stop before about 3,300 stone steps climb to Ulleri. Rooms start near USD 6. Most people walk here from Nayapul in 4 to 5 hours, but a jeep road now reaches Ulleri and skips Tikhedhunga.

The name (Tikhedhunga) means sharp stones in Nepali. Trekkers remember it for what comes next.

Just above the village, the trail turns into a stone staircase. It climbs about 510 m to Ulleri, and it is the steepest part of the Poon Hill and Annapurna Base Camp routes.

Tikhedhunga Facts

Where the Village Sits

Tikhedhunga lies in a narrow valley beside the Bhurungdi Khola. Trees shade most of it, so it stays cool in the middle of the day.

A suspension bridge crosses the stream at the edge of the village. On the far side, the steps begin. Around the village there are only farms and forest. You won’t see any mountains here, and the mountain views come after Ulleri.

Walking to Tikhedhunga

In annapurna region, trekkers start at Nayapu that is about 42 km from Pokhara. The drive takes 1.5 to 2 hours.

From Nayapul you walk to Birethanti, where staff check your ACAP card and TIMS. Then the trail turns up the Bhurungdi valley through Sudame and Hille.

It is 10 to 13 km and takes 4 to 5 hours. The path rises easily on the first day. Tea shops are on the route, so you do not need to carry much water or you can always find the taps.

Drive from Tikhedhunga to Ulleri

A jeep road now reaches Ulleri, the village at the top of the steps. On our Annapurna Base Camp trek, a jeep runs from Pokhara to Ulleri in 3 to 4 hours. You skip the walk from Nayapul and the staircase.

The jeep removes the hardest climb of the first half, which helps if you are short on days or worried about your knees.

3300 Ulleri Steps 

Above the bridge, the trail becomes a staircase of stone slabs. Counts vary, but about 3,300 steps take you 510 m up to Ulleri at around 1,950 m.

It takes 3 to 4 hours with breaks. Nothing about it is technical. It is just a long climb on hard stone, often in full sun by late morning. You will share the steps with donkey trains and porters. Wherever those situation occurs, let thm pass.

Pacing the Climb Slowly

Leave between 7 and 8 in the morning. The lower half is shaded then, and the trail is quieter. Walk at a pace where you could still talk. Rest every 20 to 30 minutes, even when you feel fine.

There are stone resting platforms under the trees along the way. Drink at each stop and eat something small.

Steps Advice After 40

Use two poles and set them a little longer than usual. They take real weight off your knees.

Take shorter steps than the slabs suggest. Some are high, and hauling yourself up each one burns your legs fast. Use the smaller side steps where you can.

Let faster walkers go ahead. Your guide stays with you, and everyone meets again at the top.

Who Finds It Hard to Trek Tikhedhunga

The walk in from Nayapul suits most people who walk regularly at home. The staircase is what separates trekkers. People who train on hills and stairs usually reach Ulleri in about three hours. People who arrive with no training often take four or more, then feel it for two days.

Age matters less than pace. We have taken trekkers in their sixties up these steps without trouble, and seen fitter young walkers struggle because they started too fast. Four to six weeks of stair work before you fly to nepal will help you alot.

Sleep Tikhedhunga or Ulleri?

Both work, so it comes down to how you like to walk. Sleeping here at tikhedhunga gives you a shorter first day and a fresh start on the steps in the cool morning. Most guided groups do this, then reach Ghorepani the next afternoon in 5 to 7 hours.

Sleeping in Ulleri means doing the steps on day one with fresh legs, and waking up 400 m higher. The second day is then shorter.

Lodges, Food and Costs

Teahouses here are simple and cheap. Expect two single beds, a thin mattress and a blanket.

Order dal bhat if you want value. You get refills, and it carries you up the steps better than chips.

Bring rupees in small notes. There is no ATM after Pokhara, and lodges do not take cards. Wi-Fi and phone signal are patchy here.

What to Carry Today

Your pack matters more on the steps than anywhere else. Every extra kilo shows up in your legs.

Keep it simple: two litres of water, sun hat, sunscreen, a light rain layer, snacks and your permits.

Poles are the most useful thing you can bring. A sun hat comes next, because the top half of the staircase has almost no shade.

Waterfalls and Village Life

The river runs right past the lodges, and you hear it all night. A waterfall drops near the north end of the village, a few minutes off the trail.

Spend the afternoon walking through the terraces. Millet, rice and maize grow here depending on the month.

Birds are the other reason to stop. The forest holds plenty, and you may see Himalayan monal higher up.

Weather Month by Month at Tikhedhunga

Permits You Need for Tikhedhunga

Two documents are checked before you reach the village, at the Birethanti post: ACAP and TIMS card. At the Birethanti checkpoint, officers inspect and stamp both physical permits. You should keep both original permits easily accessible in your daypack, as spot checks occur along the trail.

Children under 10 trek free inside the conservation area. Nepal’s guide rules have changed a few times lately, so check the current one before you book. We arrange both permits and a licensed guide for every trek here.

Which Treks Pass Through

Three routes share this trail, which is why the village is busier than its size suggests.

The short option is the Ghorepani Poon Hill trek, 4 to 5 days, ending with the sunrise view. The long one is our Annapurna Base Camp trek, 13 days, reaching 4,130 m. Annapurna Circuit trekkers also pass through on their way to Tatopani.

Still deciding? Our complete Annapurna trekking guide compares the main routes, and there is a list of things to do in the Annapurna region for spare days.

Tikhedhunga to Ghorepani Day

After Ulleri the stairs end and the walking softens. You move into rhododendron and oak forest, with moss on the trees and streams across the path.

Ghorepani sits at 2,850 m. From there it is an hour’s climb before dawn to Poon Hill at 3,210 m, for the view over Dhaulagiri, Annapurna South and Machhapuchhre.