The Tragic Story of Francys Arsentiev, the Sleeping Beauty of Mount Everest

As an experienced travel guide specializing in climbing Everest, I would like to share the tragic story of Francys Arsentiev, also known as the Sleeping Beauty of Mount Everest. Francys Arsentiev was an American mountaineer who became the first woman from the United States to reach the summit of Mount Everest without the aid of bottled oxygen on May 22, 1998. However, she did not make it back after her ascent.

Standing tall at 8848 meters, Everest is the ultimate challenge for mountaineers worldwide. For decades, it has been attracting thousands of adventurers and mountaineers to its summit. Francys Arsentiev’s final climb on Everest was not only a test of endurance, but also a haunting reminder of how ambition, even when paired with experience, can be undone by the unpredictability of the world’s highest mountain. Unfortunately, Francys Arsentiev’s story ended up as her being the “Sleeping Beauty of Everest.”

Many mountaineers lost their lives on Everest, but Francys Arsentiev stands out from the rest. Let’s learn more about her life, her passion for climbing, and the Mount Everest expedition that ended in tragedy.

Who Was Francys Arsentiev?

Francys Arsentiev (Everest sleeping beauty) was born Francys Yarbro on January 18, 1958, in Honolulu, Hawaii, to John Yarbro and his wife Marina Garrett. From an early age, she was passionate about the outdoors and had developed an appreciation for nature. 

Arsentiev attended Stephens College before ultimately graduating from the University of Louisville. She then received a Master’s degree from the International School of Business Management in Phoenix. Arsentiev worked as an accountant in Telluride, Colorado, during the 1980s. 

Passion For Climbing And Meeting Sergei

Francys’ passion for mountaineering developed after she married Sergei Aresentiev, a seasoned Russian climber. They met in the early 1990s, and their mutual love for mountains brought them together. In 1992, they got married. They perfectly complemented each other. While Sergei was a skilled climber with experience, Francys was a passionate and determined woman.

Climbing Career And Ambitions

Sergei and Francys Aresentiev climbed many Russian peaks together. They were also the first to ascend the 5,800-meter Peak, which they named “Peak Goodwill.” Later, they successfully summited Denali via the West Buttress. The couple represented cooperation between Americans and Russians post-Cold War.

Francys Arsentiev became the first U.S. woman to summit Elbrus’s east and west peaks and ski down. After many successful expeditions, she developed an interest in becoming the first American woman to summit Everest without supplemental oxygen. It was the beginning of her journey to the world’s highest mountain, where she also tragically lost her life.

The Tragic Climb In May 1998

Francys and Sergei Arsentiev arrived at Mount Everest Base Camp in May 1998. Here is the complete timeline of the tragic climb:

May 17 – 19: 

On May 17, the couple began their ascent to the mountain via the North Col-North Ridge route from Tibet. The next day, they reached 7,700 m but failed to reach the summit. On the same day, 21 other climbers reached Everest’s summit from the North side. On May 19, the couple climbed up to 8,203 meters but had to return. Sergie Arsentiev reported over the radio that they were in good shape and would ascend to the summit at 1 AM on May 20.

May 20 – 21: 

On May 20, the Arsentievs spent the night at Camp 4 and began their summit attempt again. However, they were forced to turn back when their headlamps failed at the First Step (around 8500 meters). They made another attempt the following day, but had to abort it due to bad weather. They had ascended only 50 – 10 meters before they had to return to Camp 6. Their two attempts failed due to bad weather and equipment failure. 

May 22: 

The couple’s final ascent began on May 22. They had to climb slowly due to the absence of oxygen supplementation, and it became very late to reach the summit. Finally, Francys Arsentiev became the first woman to summit the world’s highest mountain without an oxygen supplement. After reaching the top, they began their descent in the late hours. The couple was exhausted and out of supplemental oxygen, and then, along the way, they were separated. Only Sergei made it back to Camp 6. When he realized that Francys had not arrived, he gathered an oxygen tank and supplies and returned to the mountain to search for her.

May 23: 

Francys was found semi-conscious by a team of Uzbek climbers on May 23. She was severely frostbitten and was suffering from hypothermia/ cerebral pulmonary edema due to a lack of oxygen. The Uzbek team tried to help Francys by giving her some oxygen, but she was too weak. As they were also low on oxygen and exhausted, they were forced to leave her to save themselves. Sergei also disappeared and was not seen alive again.

May 24: 

Francys Arsentievs died on the morning of May 24. She was still attached to the fixed rope and exposed. Her last words were, “Don’t leave me, don’t leave me alone, please.” She was 40 years old when her life tragically came to an end. Sergei likely died around the same time. However, his body was only found the next year, down the mountain.

The Aftermath And Her Final Resting Place

For almost nine years after her death on Mount Everest in May 1998, Francys Arsentiev’s body remained visible near the main climbing route on Everest’s north side at 8500 meters. Over the years, she was seen by many climbers. She appeared sitting while still attached to the fixed ropes. Due to her peaceful position, Francys became known as the “Sleeping Beauty of Mount Everest” among the climbers.

In 2007, Ian Woodall and his team moved her body in a non-commercial humanitarian effort, “The Tao of Everest.” They removed her body from the main climbing path and moved to a more dignified, private resting place. She was given a proper burial, and her tragic story was brought to an end.

Conclusion

I hope this article helps you understand more about Francys Arsentiev’s life and her tragic death on Mount Everest. The Sleeping Beauty of Mount Everest is still in the mountain but out of sight. Francys Arsentiev was a passionate mountaineer who followed her dream to the summit of Everest and took her last breath on the mountain. Her life may have ended tragically, but she is an inspiration for many women mountaineers.

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